Sunday, January 20, 2013

2013 Oscar Nominations Costume Design Analysis


This year for best costume design five creative movies are nominated.  The most interesting part is that two of them are snow white movies, yet the costume in these movies are completely different and not at all identical. If Mirror Mirror had the most extravagant costumes, on the other hand Snow white and the huntsmen had practical costumes, then Lincoln had historic costumes  and  Anna Karenina had periodic costumes. It will be quite tough to see any of them loose since all the costumes were a feast for the eye. May the best Man/Woman win.

  • Anna KareninaJacqueline Durran 
    To depict the Russian upper crust, Durran created costumes  for the main characters like Anna, Kitty and Count Vronsky that convey high drama through bustled dresses, furry stoles, severe necklines, and many military uniforms .ANNA (KEIRA KNIGHTLEY)
    At a party on the night that leads to her submission to Count Vronsky, Anna wore red. Like many of the gowns in the film, this one was in fact made of two pieces. The bodice is cut short in the front, with a long bustle tail in the back that rests on the full skirt beneath.
    The sparkling trim that appears along the bodice is actually a separate piece from the 1950s, which Ms. Durran found at a vintage sale, and worked into the final outfit. 
    ANNA IN BLACK 

  • In the book poor Kitty, as a young debutante, doesn’t miss the significance of the black dress worn by Anna Karenina to a ball where both dance with Count Vronsky (Aaron Taylor-Johnson). Tolstoy described the dress in the most fantastic way. "At the ball held not long afterward, Vronsky dances the first dance with Kitty, who looks radiant. Anna appears, dressed not in lilac but in black, which Kitty immediately realizes is Anna’s best color. Kitty is puzzled by Anna’s refusal to respond when Vronsky bows to her. Kitty dances many waltzes with Vronsky but later finds Anna and Vronsky dancing together. Anna looks elated and triumphant. For the final mazurka, Kitty turns away her suitors, expecting Vronsky to ask her to dance. She is stunned to see that Vronsky has spurned her to dance the last dance with Anna".. It wasn’t really about the dress as much as it was about how the dress framed Anna.’s beauty.

  • While the full skirt shape reflects what a gown of the period might have looked like, Ms. Durran studied the 1950s designs of Balenciaga and Dior to create the bodice, making it seem slightly off kilter. To highlight a sense of extravagance, Anna wears Chanel jewelry throughout the film, recognizable by the camellia motif.  Also of note, the rest of the dance party in this scene was dressed in very light colors  so the black dress on Ms. Knightley functions visually, because Anna is standing out against this society.”KITTY(ALICIA VIKANDER)
     wears a symbolically white dress trimmed with pink rosettes. This dress made her look childlike, as a counterpoint to Anna’s sophistication. Kitty does have more of a costume arc in terms of the progression of the film, As she grows up, she goes from wearing sugary pink, baby blue and white to wearing champagne beige when she is married to Levin and movies into his house. color evolves to a much more sophisticated palette.
    Count Vronsky
    The military costumes are an approximation of Russian uniforms,  Count Vronsky appears throughout the film in a variety of minimalist  uniforms, in shades of gray, pale blue or white, including a very brief appearance of one with fancy gold trim on both shoulders.
    Karenin, as the cuckolded husband, mean
    while, gets a look of his own. Karenin (Jude Law), above, more often appears in severe-looking outfits, with stiff and strict lines that come to reflect his character’s personality, or perhaps constrain it. 

  • Les MisérablesPaco DelgadoLes Miserables costumes are all about historically accurate bicorn hats to the high-waisted button-front trousers and the revolutionary rosettes,  Remember that this movie is about the miseries and struggle of the characters ,hence there are no extravagant or rich costumes
    FANTINE (ANNE HATHAWAY)
    Fantine begins in soft pink and lavender but when she becomes a prostitute is moved to a deep crimson, mirroring the red prison costume of Valjean. Along with the other women at the factory who assemble rosaries, she wears gauntlets and a bonnet of rich blue, Fantine is scraping a living as a factory girl as she hides her daughter away. In terms of the fashions of the time, Dresses are still loose and flowing with high waistlines.

    Bear in mind that Fantine had no money to spare and would only have dressed simply, though even simple dresses of the time look fussy to modern eyes. 
    JAVERT (RUSSELL CROWE)Inspector Javert is first encountered as a prison guard, and remains in law enforcement throughout his career. He is smartly dressed in a uniform coat with a double row of metal buttons, and in the earlier days of his career also wears a hat in the distinctive style worn by officials of the post-Revolution era.
    Initially, as a prison guard he wears a turquoise blue uniform. There was use of more and more silver on his uniform, probably to portray what an important person he became at the end of his life."


    COSETTE (AMANDA SEYFRIED)
    amanda seyfried eddie redmayne les miserables vogue feature 01
     She started as a girl dressed in black because she was living in a convent and had this sort of saint kind of look, a proper girl at a convent school. The style of cossete is excellently described in the book  by Victor Hugo "And then she was no longer a boarding-school miss, with her plush bonnet, merino dress, thick shoes, and red hands; taste had come to her with beauty, and she was well dressed, with a species of simple, rich, and uneffected elegance. She wore a black brocade dress, a cloak of the same material, and a white crape bonnet; her white gloves displayed the elegance of her hand which was playing with the ivory handle of a parasol, and her satin boot revealed the smallness of her foot." Marius first glimpse of Cosette is at the market, where she is wearing a bonnet lined in pleated pink silk that has a halo effect. Later on, her white bedclothes are finely embroidered with lilacs, vines and other blossoms. It probably may  be an explosion of emotions coming from her in  romance.
  • LincolnJoanna Johnston

    MARY TODD (SALLY FIELD)
    The use of crinoline to balloon out dresses was at its historical peak in 1865, Lincolns wife was criticized for spending too much on clothing. She wasn’t a great looker, Mary Todd, but  the over-trussing of her, her adornments, clothes, headdresses, and bonnets, helped her look great in a way. SallyField was asked to gain quite a bit of weight forLincoln, as much to fill out her face as her waistline, so she would look more like the historic Mrs. Lincoln.

    A big challenge was to differentiate the men’s apparel within the narrow confines of style and fashion of the period. That was especially required in the crowded scenes in the House of Representatives where over 100 characters were crowded closely together debating whether to pass a constitutional amendment to abolish slavery. 
    LINCOLN (DANIEL_DAY_LEWIS)Day-Lewis’outfits were more than just unstructured. His clothes were also designed to be a bit loose fitting, mirroring Lincoln’s gangly appearance . The costume designer excelled in recreating Lincoln’s iconic silhouette. Another masterful touch was the shawl she made for the actor. Day-Lewis wrapped himself in it in so many ways, using it to reflect his moods and thoughts, depending on the way he wore it. It was absolutely brilliantThe hat is also an integral part of Lincoln's costumes . In a Vanity Fair article the designer said that she even requested an approximation of the original hat’s Moroccan-red leather lining. She say's“He tucked a lot of his paperwork in there, which you see in the film”m
  • Eiko Ishioka




    Tony nominee (M. Butterfly) and Oscar winner (Bram Stoker’s Dracula). She led the creation of more than 400 costumes for Mirror Mirror.  The spectacular handmade gowns that Snow White and the Evil Queen wear required as much as 35 yards of fabric. The Evil Queen’s massive wedding gown weighs more than 60 pounds and caused Julia Roberts to pull a thigh muscle when turning too quickly in it! 
    Visually, the film is the final masterwork of costume designer Eiko Ishioka, passed way from pancreatic cancer in January at the age of 73. 




    The costumes for “Mirror Mirror,” nevertheless, include more than a few knowing winks, including a wedding dress of blue with an enormous orange bow that pays tribute to the Snow White of Walt Disney. Perhaps the most visually exciting example of Ms. Ishioka’s work is in a grand ball scene in which the guests are dressed in gowns inspired by animals — a swan, a walrus, a giraffe — all in shades of winter white, while the queen, played by Ms. Roberts, wears a venomous shade of red.
     queen’s character is a person who only cares about power,he said.  The designer turned the queen into a peacock, literally a red peacock. to show how whimsical and driven with power she was.
  • Snow White and the HuntsmanColleen Atwood
    SNOW WHITE (KRISTEN  STEWART)The designer took a practical approach to Snow White’s understated ensemble, which Stewart wears for most of the movie, by determining how a young woman locked away in a tower for seven years realistically might be dressed. “Snow White is a totally different kind of character. She's much less princess-y and more of a bad-ass girl. Her costume is leather with clamps and different stitching on it, so it’s quite different. f
    Atwood did hold onto one aspect of Snow White’s signature friill. As for rejecting the princess’s primary colors, the the olive and light blue just suited Kristen’s eyes and hair. The colors also looked good in the forest and against many different backgrounds, which was important, because she is in it for so long.”EVIL QUEEN (CHARLIZE THERON)
     In addition to modernizing Snow White, Atwood, who is known for detailed, handcrafted costumes, created a dozen elaborate looks for Charlize Theron’s evil Queen Ravenna. or the queen’s climactic showdown with Snow White, she outfitted Theron in a chainmail gown with leather spike details The fairest design of them all, however, might be Charlize Theron’s wedding gown, worn during Ravenna’s royal union to Snow White’s father, the ill-fated king. the severely corseted dress.  It was our way of telegraphing [the queen’s] evil edge. All of the fine embroidered details are actually leather.
    You can read Anna Karenina and Les Miserables through the below linkhttp://www.free-ebooks.net/ebook/Anna-Kareninahttp://www.free-ebooks.net/ebook/Les-Miserables/pdf/viewREFRENCES:Seventeen Magazine.comVanity Fair.comVouge.comLA times.comNewyorktimes.comFree-e books.net

Saturday, January 19, 2013

Christmas dress for baby


 Holidays  are always exciting and beautiful for me. Since this Christmas is special  I made a Christmas dress for Aanya, which I want to share with all of you.








The Material: 
Red fleece for the base- 
Red Satin for  the front and hands-
White fleece for border-
Red buttons
Red and White threads


The Cut outs:
Aanya is 11 months old, but she is on the taller side so this is around 18 months measurement.
Two base  fleece fabric - length 16 inch, chest-10 inch, skirt-16 inch
One satin front fabric of same dimensions 
Two satin hand fabric-10 inch length. shoulder ,arm- wrist
Borders-1 short for neck
2  for hands
1 for base



The Stitching:

First make the embroidery patterns on the satin body fabric. I have a 
SINGER 7256 Fashion Mate 70-Stitch Computerized Free-Arm Sewing Machine
where the embroidery is no 43 design.




Now take the hand fabric and pin it along the sleeve and stitch a full circle. The pins helps from keeping the satin from falling off. 
Then stitch the satin front with the similar fleece cut out.and stitch both the fleece body togetherStitch the borders of the hands and the body.


Stitch the red buttons in the back.
Take a broad white satin ribbon. cut the ribbon inch make a bow and stitch it to the satin ribbon. stitch the ribbon to the chest.
Christmas dress is ready, hope you make a Christmas dress for your or your loved ones baby. Let me know how did it go.

Thursday, January 3, 2013

Downton Abbey Fashion Analysis






Downton Abbey,  one of my favorite mini series is about to start on Jan 6.  Many of you who are PBS fans like me must have been watching this from the start.  I have watched both the series and their re- runs religiously on PBS and  apart from the drama I am big fan of the  fashion and have done quite a research on this. The onset of season 3 inspired me to write this article and share with you what I have learned about the inspirations and facts of Downton Abbey Fashion.





I love the research and detail that is shown even in the wardrobe of these characters.  In a Vogue issue one of the Downton Abbey cast  told that they used minimal make up and did not use mascara because at that time mascara was not introduced.  Also in season 2 I liked the part where  first curling irons were introduced and Anna was trying it to curl her own hair before applying it on Lady Mary.  Who off-course  looked lovely with those curls.


Mary in tiara and gown wearing a choker necklace and a string of pearls



In an article in entertainment time .com Susannah Buxton, Downton Abbey's costume designer say"Real-life people frequently inspire designs for on-screen characters". She thought of Britain's Queen Mary while designing costumes for Maggie Smith, who plays the acerbic Dowager Countess of Grantham, Violet Crawley.  The above picture of both Queen Mary and  Violet Crawley when compared, a resemblance of style can be seen. The queen, Buxton says, was extremely dominant and had a strong shape that translated well for Violet. The Dowager Countess is seen wearing a lot of black and dark color garments with heavy beaded work. Most of her ensemble are always complete with a hat.


Even Her Ladyship Cora Crawley’s character, who is an American and Lord Grantham married her for the dowry (money she brought with her) to help maintain his estate was a common trend then. From late-Victorian times onwards, such transatlantic transactions became commonplace as hundreds of socially ambitious 'dollar princesses' like Cora - drawn from the US's millionaire families - bought themselves prime positions in the upper echelons of the British aristocracy.
One of the first was Winston Churchill's mother, Jennie. Daughter of a hugely rich Wall Street speculator, Leonard Jerome, she married Lord Randolph, the Duke of Marlborough's younger son, in 1874. Lady Cora is an american and her modern fashion reflects her mind. She wore more of lace and chiffon rather than the more traditional beaded work dresses worn by women of her age.





The season one started in 1912 which is the Edwardian Era and Season two started in 1916 with World War I which with everything else also took a toll on the fashion.  Women became more independent as most men of the house were away.  The war had a major effect on fashion in fabric restrictions, style changed due to women taking over men’s jobs. Dresses became shorter (6 inches shorter, exposing the ankle) and many women adopted military-ish sweaters and trench coats. Hats, gloves, and parasols were exchanged for simply buns and functional gloves with modest hats. Most of the Men were at war and when home too they were in uniform, which was again why His Lordship was wearing the war uniform. There was a remarkable change seen in the fashion  of season 1 to season 2 in clothes to hats.




Particularly if we follow  Lady Mary Crawley's fashion we can see her  dresses took on a whole new dimension.  The first season was about glamorous evening gowns with large hats and broad hats having face shadowing brims, her costumes made her stand out  among the show’s three sisters. In the second season gone was the corseted waist and in its place was the hobble skirt and smaller hats with flat brims.




Lady Edith, who with Lady Mary had a visibly strong sibling rivalry looked odd from time to time and her more regal sister Mary was seen making scathing remarks on her. During the second season, Edith proved her mettle and compassion as Downton transformed into a convalescent home. Her style improved to reflect her new-found confidence.





Sybil the youngest , slightly rebellion for her time, falls in love with Branson, the family chauffeur. Her clothes showcased that freedom of spirit specially when she wore the Harem dress with turkish trousers as no women would even think of wearing trousers then.




Season 2 introduced the character of Lavinia Swire as Mathew Crawley’s fiance. Lavinia’s dresses are believed to be inspired by the late Edwardian King of Fashion, Paul Poiret. Poiret’s  contributions to twentieth-century fashion have been likened to Picasso's contributions to twentieth-century art. Bejeweled rope headband Lavinia wears for her introduction to the Grantham’s at Downton is alluring. Lavinia is daughter of a middle class soliciter and the headband  shows her desire to be seen as fashionable and most importantly as affluent enough to marry Matthew. Above I compared Lavinia’s  introductory costume to two of Paul Poiret's creations which looks similar.

I personally like the character and outfits of Mary Crawley.  My next project is to make a blouse inspired by a dress worn by her.  Hope I succeed in my project. Until then Happy Stitching!